I’ve been in Warsaw for a couple of days visiting with colleagues.

Last night, one of them suggested dinner at U Kucharzy (”The Chefs”), and then told us, with what we suspected was more than an ounce of hyperbole, that it might be the best restaurant in Poland.

Obviously, I’m in no place to evaluate that question. But I can now declare that U Kucharzy is a world-class restaurant that would distinguish itself just as well if it were in London, Paris or New York.

We entered through a non-descript door that only a local would know to look for, and we found ourselves in a shabby hallway with a bench along one wall and a worn red carpet that looks like a holdover from the communist era. After a moment, we were greeted by a well-dressed gentleman whose long beard was a throw-back to a different era of Polish history. He led us through a maze of tables and counters and directed us to two seats at a raised platform.

It was only when we sat down that we discovered our seats in the rather ordinary dining room gave us a complete view of the Chefs at work.

The view from our table.

The meal that followed was extraordinary. I started with pate, while my colleague Wolfgang began with pork aspic. Both were amazing. Dinner for me was “deer” served with braised beets and local potato dumplings similar to gnocchi. Wolfgang’s main course was “roast beef.” (You can see Wolfgang’s review via Seesmic here.)

Needless to say, the descriptions don’t do justice to the food. Nor do they do justice to the method of service. Rather than being plated in the kitchen, all of our dishes were prepared and served at table side.

Between courses, the appetizers arrived for the table next to us, and we watched as a chef prepared steak tartare from scratch, completely by hand. We discovered, while we watched, that the table in question was occupied by the restaurant’s owner and his friends. After they passed around the tartare, they shared it with us. It was a wonder. Absolutely delicious.

All in all, it was a superb dinner. For my money, the best of Poland. Were in Warsaw again tonight, you can be sure that I would be headed back for more.

Oh. And the bill? About £75.

Here’s more on U Kacharzy from the Daily Telegraph and the Warsaw Voice.