As regular readers know, a couple of months ago, I moved to London. Unfortunately, for practical reasons — mostly involving the legal transport of our dog, Cody — my wife was not able to join me right away. Knowing that, and knowing that my new friends in London could not always be entertaining me at the pub — though several have made valiant efforts — I decided to undertake some long-intended reading.
For starters, I picked up a copy of the Penguin Complete Sherlock Holmes.
At 1,022 pages and weighing about 5 pounds, it was a heavy (literally) piece of reading, but the Holmes Canon (as true Holmes experts call the collected works) was one work of literature I had long wanted to complete.
And since almost the moment of my arrival, it has been my companion. On evenings when I wanted to get out for a quiet dinner, for example, Holmes and Watson came along. They’ve been along to the pub and the coffee shop and even taken the round trip with me to Coventry and Milton Keynes.
Tonight, I finished it.
I had read some Holmes in the past. Everyone, I think, ought to be required to read Sign of Four and Hound of the Baskervilles in a literature class somewhere along their educational path. But I had never before consumed all of the tails. And certainly, I had never done so on London.
Reading Holmes so soon after coming to London turned out to be a great way to immerse myself in the London of the Victorian era. And to a great degree, the London that was built up in the time of Holmes is still very much the one that I live in today.
Even now, Thames water have only begun replacing the Victorian sewer system. My own flat is in a converted Victorian townhouse built on one of the most important and oldest streets in north London.
One day, after reading my Holmes through a cold, grey weekend morning, the sun emerged, so I went down to Baker Street and visited the Sherlock Holmes Museum. At the time Conan Doyle was first publishing the Holmes stories, 221B Baker Street was the world’s most famous false address. Today, it stands just over the road from the Baker Street tube station, and just yards from the lovely Regent Park. In Holmes’ day, it would have been further down, closer to hustle of Oxford Street. No matter. The museum was interesting. And if nothing else, I learned that Mrs. Hudson’s house and the rooms taken by the good doctor and the eccentric detective were each a good bit smaller than I had envisioned.

The Sherlock Holmes Statue at Baker Street Tube Station in London.
Credit: fede_gene88 via Flickr.
Still, I kept reading. Through all 56 short stories and 4 novels.
So much literary criticism has been penned about the Canon, that I won’t pretend to try and contribute. I will say that many of Conan Doyle’s stories are masterpieces. But as one would expect, as he got later in life, the stories became a bit more predictable and formulaic. Even so, I can’t point to a single story that I didn’t thoroughly enjoy. And there were many that were absolutely enthralling.
I think my favorite element was the characters of Holmes and Watson themselves. Conan Doyle graced them both with considerable wit and the romanticized grace of an era that was overflowing with it. Watson was especially compelling: the dogged, frustrated writer who over thirty years made his friend the most famous detective in all the world, and kept working his way through the notes in his Despatch Box at the bank near Charing Cross, right up until 1914.
I don’t know how long I’ll live in London. Perhaps for many years. But I am sure that thanks to my time spent with Mr. Holmes and Dr. Watson during my first weeks here, whenever I look around, I’ll see fleeting bits of their London wherever I turn.
UPDATE: My wife tells me that two Holmes movies are in the works. I’ll do a little digging on them tomorrow when the sun comes up.